Niamey

My new housemate had a welcome card waiting for me!

One week in Niger...the dust has settled a bit...if the dust ever settles here!  Most roads right here in the capital aren't paved and look like huge reddish grids of sand/dust boxes, catching as many innocent drivers in their grip as they can.  Yes, I was one of those victims as Susie, my new housemate, and I were driving along Saturday evening.  Most Nigeriens seem well accustomed to this game, however, and about 6 of them appeared as soon as they saw we were stuck.  In less than 5 minutes, they had dug us out and pushed us onward to continue our sand surfing fun soon to arrive safely back at our house.  Susie, the one driving, took it all in ease as she assured me that I too will get used to getting stuck in the sand.  "The first time scared me to death, the second time I felt only a bit nervous and the third time I was able to wave it off as a part of life here, knowing people would pop up to help wherever I'm at."  I'll be taking my driving-in-sand test in a couple weeks after I get used to walking in it for awhile....another strange thing to walk around in what seems like a sandy seashore with no ocean to be found.  I'm also fighting a losing battle with the fine dust and sand that constantly floats through the air...or in the case of the other day, rages through the air as we had a sandstorm lasting all day and even blocked the sun.  I could barely open my eyes in the short 2-minute walk from the office to the house.  Yep, almost forgot about those Harmattan winds. 

Niamey:  The air is the same color as the ground

Niamey life:  the contrast of nomadic households and permanent buildings

Niamey

Aside from the elements, my first few days have been wonderful.  Everyone I have met has been nothing but warm, friendly and welcoming and it feels nice to be immersed in another culture again...Francophone West Africa, no less.  My French is returning slowly but surely, following the pace of life here:  slow but sure.  It always amazes me to feel as if I've gained thrice as many hours in a day just by walking into an African culture...well, maybe I can only speak for these few West African countries I've been in.  It feels nice after the fast-paced DC life I just left behind.  We'll see if I still think it feels nice in a few weeks haha!  I'm taking in all the familiarities-familiar to me from my life in Burkina-so in so many ways it feels like I've returned into the waiting embrace of an old friend.  I smiled as I shopped in a small boutique where Celine's "My Heart Will Go On" was on repeat...I counted 5 times straight through before I left.  The waiting around at stores and roadsides while people search for change, the colorful materials and outfits, the lizards, the onset of mango season, the call to prayer 5 times a day, the greetings that go on forever, even a monkey in the market yesterday.  Donkey carts and camels can be found throughout Niamey, heavily loaded as they come and go from the markets.  But I'm especially enjoying the greetings...I actually love how long the greeting process takes and how important this ritual is...granted, there have been many times in the past where it bothered me and maybe will again at some point, but for now I love the tradition of it and how it forces me to see each person as truly that: a person with a family, life, work and all the things I must ask about each one every time I see them!

The Niger river is definitely the life of the city, and most fresh vegetables found in the local markets were grown along its huge banks.  I got my first glimpse of the river at a sunrise get together Easter morning...the deep green from all the trees and plants growing alongside were a stark contrast to the red sand landscape as far as the eye could see beyond it.  I've been amazed at the amount of birds that can be found here in Niamey.  I've learned Niger is an important spot for migrating birds from as far away as Russia; most come from Europe.

But how can I talk about the carefree life of the birds here, however, when it could not be more opposite than the the situation many Nigeriens and Malians find themselves in; and we are reminded of it constantly as security measures increase and need for water, food and shelter for Nigeriens and Malian refugees alike also increases.  There is much to be said about this but I think I'll write more about it in a future post.

I wanted to include pictures, but for some reason the uploading function is not working...so that, too, must wait for a future post.